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象山:山不在高妙在恰好(行走台湾)

2018年08月24日 18:57来源:网络整理手机版

  台北四面环山,民众看花、泡温泉常去阳明山,但如果是只有半日偷闲或是背包游客,大多数人会推荐象山。象山交通方便,俯瞰台北景色不输阳明。

  一站自繁华街区到葱茏山路

  到象山,堪称是自喧闹抵幽静最快的旅程。自台北101大楼乘捷运一站即到象山站。前一站,信义区商业街衣香鬓影、万头攒动;这一站,已是绿草如茵、花香浮动,再步行数百米,即到象山脚下。

  象山位于台北盆地东缘,因山形似象而得名,与临近的狮山、虎山、豹山并称为四兽山。象山自然步道是环状路线,山并不高,资料显示海拔183米,但山势陡峻,爬上去也需要些体力。

  石砌步道整齐蜿蜒,拜丰沛雨水所赐,步道两侧草木葱茏。沿途不时可以看到标示牌,介绍附近的动植物品类。尽管与闹市一站之遥,象山不但植物丰富,动物也不少,千龙电影网,据说五色鸟、绿绣眼、锹形虫、竹蝉等都是常客。不过,对普通游客来说,能不能看到要凭运气。常常闻声不见鸟,最常见到的是小松鼠。它们会大大咧咧地走近步道觅食,从容地在树间跳来跳去,完全无视一旁拍照的游客。

  象山简直就是为眺望台北而设计。一段急行后,便有观景台。由一块巨石崩裂而成的“六巨石”傲然而立,攀爬上去,席石而坐,既可喘息歇脚,也可俯瞰台北。再高处有“逸贤亭”,视野更加开阔,甚至可以看到象山全貌。步道常为浓密枝叶遮蔽,走上观景平台,天地豁然开朗。天气晴好时,远处天光映照得整片大地都散发着光芒,此时若有轻风拂面,所有的汗水都化为沁人心脾的清凉。

  拍摄地标台北101的绝佳地

  登象山最好的时间是近傍晚。体力好的不到半个小时即可登顶;走走停停,一个多小时也可到达最高的观景台。

  象山前无屏障,台北盆地一览无余,尤其是台北地标101大楼清晰可见。傍晚时分,可以看日光逐渐黯淡、灯光次第亮起。随着夜色愈来愈浓,遮蔽整个山体,眼前的台北则愈来愈亮,直到全城灯光璀璨。此时,纵横交错的道路犹如一条条光带,一辆辆汽车犹如萤火虫来回穿梭。而灯光映照下的台北101大楼,则如一把光可鉴人的宝锏自大地笔直刺出。

  象山是拍摄台北101的最佳地点。平日也可见摄影爱好者背负着沉重三脚架和相机登山。近些年来,每到12月31日午夜,台北101会燃放焰火庆祝新年。数以万计的民众自四面八方赶到台北101附近观看,许多人还直奔象山山顶观景台。那时,观景台的最佳位置是必争之地,有人不惜提前一天“占位”,风餐露宿一晚,只为在最好的角度拍到持续1分多钟的跨年烟花。

  美在唾手可得与人人呵护

  忘了是哪个台湾电视剧,其中一幕是两个好友夜晚跑到象山山顶喝酒聊天。这一情节很常见。象山无需门票,清晨是晨练人的天地。半个小时快速登山既可运动,又不乏乐趣。有人带着宠物狗,一同呼吸浸着草香的新鲜空气。傍晚的象山,除了游客、摄影爱好者,还有不少年轻人。他们带着啤酒、零食,在山顶平台抒胸怀、聊心事,享受静夜美景。山间的清风明月,唾手可得、毫无负担,如苏东坡所言“取之无禁,用之不竭”。

  象山的美还体现在一些细节。步道两边没有垃圾箱,人们习惯于将垃圾带走。某次登山,忽见石阶上立着一个空了一半的饮料瓶。走近看,瓶下压了一张小纸,写着:“此处勿踩,石阶松动”。原来是前面的登山人给后来者的善意提醒。常见人光脚登山,财帮子,似乎为了养生。终有一次忍不住询问一位空着双手的赤脚登山客:“你的鞋呢?”他说,放在山脚下了,“不会不见啊,我一直都放在那里,没谁会动。”而清晨,走在雾气朦胧的步道,不论相识与否,迎面都可遇到微笑加“早安”,让象山之行再添一缕美好。


  《 人民日报 》( 2018年08月16日 20 版)

(责编:胡倩(实习生)、刘洁妍)

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