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台湾铁路便当:火车上难忘的味蕾记忆

2018年10月03日 21:51来源:网络整理手机版

台湾铁路便当:火车上难忘的味蕾记忆

  奋起湖站售卖铁路便当的老店。
  资料图片

台湾铁路便当:火车上难忘的味蕾记忆

  色香味俱佳的铁路便当。
  资料图片

  便当就是盒饭。在台湾台北车站,每天中午一到午餐时间,台铁(台湾铁路)便当的店铺前就排起长长的队。队伍中不少人并不是旅客,而是专门来买便当的。如果去得晚了,就会看到火车头造型的餐车空空如也。指示牌显示,下一次供餐要在半小时以后。

  供不应求的便当,有这么好吃?

  一般的台铁便当,肉、蛋、鱼、蔬菜齐全,品质并不会因为属于快餐就降低品级。品质有保证,同时每盒仅售80到100元新台币(约合20元人民币)。物美价廉,德德搜书吧,这就是台铁便当的独特魅力。

  除了不贵好吃,还贴心。比如著名的池上便当,有三大特点:使用的是池上大米,用透气的木盒装盛,做干式便当。由于旅客坐火车的时间很长,经营者不知道游客什么时候吃便当。如果便当里面的菜品出水的话,零启互联,比较容易变质,因此便当以“干”的菜为主。原来的便当以猪肉为主,为了避免口感上的单调,采取卤、烤、炸、煎等不同的方式。这样烹调后的肉也不容易出水。同时,现在人们更加注重养生,米饭上面铺着满满一层蔬菜的素食便当也开始风行。

  台铁便当的由来,也可是看作一部岛内社会发展史。台湾的铁路四通八达,你想去哪里,只要坐上台铁基本都能到达。早期铁路列车还是蒸汽火车头,行车时间久,在奔波的旅途中,难免无聊嘴馋肚子饿,台铁便当就应运而生。

  据岛内一位上了年岁的朋友讲,最早铁路便当用铁盒装着,盒盖上是台铁的“工”字形标识,装有一块炸排骨或卤鸡腿、半个卤蛋、一片香肠、一点咸菜。由列车服务人员在车厢上巡回叫卖。岛内朋友说,小时候搭火车,最向往的就是爸妈愿意掏钱买一个便当,兄弟两人分食之,这是早年间最幸福和满足的记忆之一。

  随着铁路电气化发展,铁路旅程时间缩短,台铁上贩卖便当也逐渐减少,改为月台叫卖或车站窗口售卖。而包装也由从前的铁盒变成了竹片或纸盒包装。

  奋起湖是台湾最有名的铁路便当之一。阿里山森林铁路建成后,奋起湖车站是最大的中继站。蒸汽火车时代,火车必须在此停留换车头,于是旅客都会在此稍事休息。由此造就了奋起湖独特的火车便当文化。奋起湖还因此获得“便当王国”的美称。当地甚至流行着一句口语,“没吃过奋起湖便当,仿佛没到过阿里山”。

  台东池上便当也叫池上饭包。池上处于花莲与台东的交界之处,气候温宜、土地富饶,是台湾的稻米之乡,列车经过之地,到处都是生机勃勃的稻田。

  初期的池上饭包是以竹叶包装,配菜有鲁肉、黄菜头、烤肉乾、猪肝、瘦肉片、一小块蛋饼、用小虾和面粉油炸成的炸虾饼及梅子。1962年起,池上饭包由原来的竹叶包饭团改以用竹片盒装饭,成为今日广为人知的池上便当。

  不少大陆游客从花莲搭火车到枋寮,途中经过池上站,都要打卡买个便当尝尝。为了能在列车停靠不到2分钟的时间内,买到地道的池上便当,不少网站都发表“攻略”:先准备好零钱,到站前先站在车门口卡位,等列车停妥后,在第一时间毫不犹豫冲下车,买到手后再以最快速度跑回上车。

  有人戏称,这不到2分钟的刺激经验为“生死极速”。如果买完后赶不上火车,“你就可以留在池上尽情享用了”。

  此外,其他一些地方的便当也很有特色。比如花莲火车站前的花莲怀旧铁路便当,配有卤蛋、青菜和肉片。今天看来普普通通,但在过去那个年代,这样的菜色已经很奢华了。这样的便当,卖的不仅是古早味,还有那份怀旧浓情。福隆铁路便当在台湾东北面最有名。但很少有人知道,其实福隆便当最早的服务对象是在当地从事休闲海钓的钓客,后来才渐渐变成火车上贩卖。

  如今随着社会的发展,便当文化也与时俱进。除了奋起湖、池上和福隆可以在月台或车站购买以外,台铁公司在松山、台北、板桥、台中、新左营、高雄、桃园、新竹、嘉义、南沙仑等站都有专门的窗口售卖。品种很丰富,除了传统的排骨、卤肉、鸡腿可选,还有新推出的素食便当以及限量供应的北海道特色便当、“原住民”风的特“蔬”便当等。便当外形除了常见的方形,还有圆形、八角形和不同主题的纪念版。

  从便当店铺前每日熙熙攘攘的人流中,从岛内朋友温馨回忆的言辞里,足见小小一份铁路便当,已经融入岛内日常生活,承载了不少人的饮食文化与味蕾记忆!

(责编:岳弘彬、樊海旭)

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